Bacon Bites Back… and other Berg Adventures

Paul, Robin and myself went to the Drakensberg this weekend for a little mini break. Unfortunately Paul has all the pics on his digital camera, and my PC is waiting for a Windows reinstall, so I’m afraid this little weekend report-back will be sans pics… until at least later in the week.

On Friday evening we drove up to Nottingham Road in the Natal Midlands to spend the night on Paul’s sister’s farm (and chop an hour or so off the journey). Along with the usual menagerie of farm animal life they now have 7 dogs, including feisty new Jack Russell puppy, Rocky.

On Saturday morning, we decided to show Robin around the farm before departing. It was at this point that our holiday took a little detour. Clearly out of revenge for all the ham, bacon, pork chops and gammon I’ve eaten in my life, a young sow (called Bacon) came snuffling up, sniffed at my shoe and promptly bit me above the ankle.

It was more of a nip really, but Bacon still drew blood, and seeing as it has been at least 15 years since my last tetanus shot, we then had to find a doctor so I could have a fresh jab. At this point we learnt a very valuable lesson and that’s not to fall ill in the Midlands. Particularly on weekends. If you can find a doctor’s office or clinic, it will be shut. And the after-hours number will not work.

Eventually a kind woman in a butchery directed us to a hokey pokey little medical practice in Mooi River. R180 later (for the consultation, shot – hopefully not just saline or something – and 5 days of antibiotics), we were on the road again.

Sidenote:
Having been bitten by dogs, a monkey and now a pig it looks like I’m slowly making my way through the Chinese Zodiac (the dragon might be a little difficult to find though).


Injisuthi is a great destination in the Drakensberg – South Africa’s premiere World Heritage site. For one thing, it’s a real African adventure getting there as you drive over horribly pot-holed roads through a rural ‘town’ for an hour before you read the reserve gates. For another thing, Injisuthi is wonderfully remote, rustic and non-commercial, unlike, say, Mahai – there’s no cell phone reception, the camp is small and typically deserted, and in the self-catering cabins, the electricity goes off at 10pm. Everything else (the stove, fridge, geyser, heater) is gas powered.

And with assorted long and short walks in the Champagne Castle and Monks Cowl mountain region (including a number of caves where you can camp overnight), Injisuthi is a hiker’s dream location.

The weather was overcast as we drove to Injisuthi, but in the mountains it was pleasantly sunny. As pasty office wage slaves, we lathered ourselves in sun tan lotion before embarking on a 5-6km round trip hike to Poacher’s Stream, where we boulder-hopped up to a little waterfall to eat our lunch in the shade before returning to our chalet. For the rest of the day, into the evening, we chilled, chatted, braaied and played Settlers of Cataan.

On Sunday we decided to check out Grindstone Cave/s, because we’re interested in getting a group of us together sometime to do the whole overnight sleeping in caves thing. It was only about 2 hours steep-ish ascent from camp, but sitting eating lunch in the cave (complete with icy shower/waterfall), nestled high in the mountains, it felt incredibly remote. Scottish Highlands kind of remote.

On the way back to camp we detoured to have a look at the old 19th Century dipping tank ruins, managed to get ourselves stuck on the end of a cliff when we followed a fake path, and then had to clamber back up the hill to find the proper path back to camp. All in all, an 8km or so hike.

Then it was back to reality, stopping to pick up Hot Chocolate from the service station Wimpy on the way home. As a weekend it was great – a fantastic change from the usual 'What shall we do now? / Where shall we go now?' domestic routine.

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