Ciao, Bella! 4 days in Italy
The best weather we had during our Contiki tour was in Italy, where it was sunny and warm – without ever being oppressively hot. I’d also definitely go back to the country, if only to spend more time in the Vatican and Florence, both of which I thoroughly enjoyed (but which I can imagine are packed and polluted nightmares during the Summer high season). Rome, with its pollution, graffiti and scraped cars in narrow streets, reminded me a great deal of Athens, which isn't at all a bad thing actually.
Venice, frankly, I found overrated, although it probably wasn’t helped by the fact that on the Saturday we were there several cruise liners had unleashed their thousands of passengers on the island. Away from the main area, as I roamed the maze of backstreets and bridges, I could begin to see Venice’s charm and uniqueness, but people going on about it as “the most amazing place ever” have seriously overhyped the city. Oh, and for the record, in September and October its waterways aren’t smelly and slimy at all.
Communication:
Italian has a lot of similarities to Spanish, so if you have any familiarity with the latter language (which the bf at least did), it’s a considerable help. You’ll find yourself using “Scusi” and “Grazie” probably the most in common encounters.
Activities & Attractions:
Venice: You’ll find most of the main attractions are right there at St Mark’s Square: there’s the impressive St Mark’s Basilica, with its horse statues along the front, the Campanile bell tower (just don’t climb it when the bells are about to ring because you’ll deafen yourself), the Doge’s Palace (with the Bridge of Sighs), where the rulers of the powerful Venetian city state would live and govern from – and also where super lover Casanova was imprisoned.
Away from the Square there’s also the Peggy Guggenheim Museum for lovers of Modern Art (works by Dali, Picasso and Jackson Pollock are on display), the Accademia Museum, focused on 14th-18th Century Venetian artworks, the Rialto Bridge over the Grand Canal and, further afield, the Lido beach.
Given what little time we had, and after discovering the cathedral was closed, we toured the incredibly impressive Doge’s Palace (€13 entry) and hunted down Campo San Barnaba, which played a prominent role in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade – “X marks the spot.” To get around Venice, follow the signs to the main areas, and keep a good map on hand. You can get to most things on foot, which is a good thing as water taxis are apparently very expensive, and there’s no such thing as daily travel cards in Venice. Oh, and bear in mind, unless you’re very wealthy and can afford to stay on the island, your Venetian hotel will be on the mainland.
Rome: Apart from the Vatican, which is a bit separate from the other tourist attractions, you can actually get around to the main sights of Rome quite easily on foot. I always thought that the Vatican, the smallest independent city state in the world, was essentially walled off from the rest of Rome, but it’s not. You just walk on in – although you have to pass through airport style security (i.e. no sharp objects) to enter St. Peter’s Basilica (which is free, by the way).
As a Catholic, a pilgrimage to the Vatican is kinda obligatory, but really for anyone, Christian or not, this World Heritage Site is a must-see. No photo can really do justice to the utter magnificence of St. Peter’s, the biggest church in the world. Inside, look out for the statue of Christianity’s first great leader, St. Peter himself, whose foot has been worn down over the centuries by the kisses of millions of pilgrims, as well as Michelangelo's famous Pietà (right by the door), probably the only thing in the entire cathedral that’s actually human/life-size. You can also climb up to the top of the Cupola for a closer look at the Basilica’s ceiling mosaics, as well as amazing views of Rome. You’ll climb 500+ highly worn stairs to get there, and apparently some devout pilgrims like to do it completely on their hands and knees. It’s €5 to start from ground level, or you can pay €7, like we did, and take the elevator halfway up. Be warned though – it’s a demanding, dizzying climb, even if you’re only doing part of it.
The Vatican also includes the famous Vatican Museums (€14 entry), which house one of the greatest art collections in the world. A particular highlight for me was finally seeing the sculpture Laocoon and his Sons in real life, although the Museum’s major drawcards are the newly restored, vibrantly coloured Raphael Rooms and Sistine Chapel. Again, you probably need to spend a full day in the museum to fully appreciate what you’re seeing. I felt very guilty rushing through the map and tapestry halls, ancient animal sculpture room as well as the expansive modern art section.
If you’re ever visiting the Vatican, just be sure to get there early. Like 7:30 early. And be sure to look out for the Pope’s exclusive Swiss Guard in their striped pyjama uniforms.
In terms of other things to do and see in Rome, well, the list is endless. Along with the temple-turned-church, the Pantheon, there are dozens of other free churches that house all kinds of supposed relics, from St. Peter’s chains during his imprisonment, to the steps Jesus ascended to be judged by Pilot. Then there are all the water features and monuments, from the stunning Trevi Fountain to the Spanish Steps to the massive and beautiful National Monument, with its eternal flame and Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.
Of course I haven’t even touched on all the sights relating to Ancient Rome, which include the excavated Roman Forum (the city’s ancient political and economic centre), the Colosseum, Circus Maximus, the “cat pit” where hundreds of stray felines have lived for centuries, and various towering monuments and obelisks.
Oh and our tour manager pointed out all the important sites featured in Dan Brown’s Angels & Demons, so presumably fans of that book will have a blast in Rome, visiting places like the Castle of Angels.
Florence: The heart of Tuscany, Florence is also known as the capital of the European Renaissance. Many of the greatest artistic, scientific, literary and political minds lived in Florence, including Leonardo, Michelangelo, Galileo, Dante and Machiavelli. Their influence is all over the city, and probably the number one museum to visit while in Florence is the Uffizi Gallery, which, apart from being Italy’s biggest art gallery, houses an amazing selection of Renaissance era works by some of the greatest Masters, including Botticelli’s Birth of Venus. We weren’t up for standing in long queues, and rushing another expensive museum visit, so regrettably we missed the Uffizi Gallery.
For general sightseeing though, the Piazza Signoria is a good starting point in this very compact city. It contains the fort-like city hall, several stunning Renaissance sculptures (my favourite being a huge bronze of Perseus beheading Medusa) and a fake version of Michelangelo’s David where the original used to stand. The real David can be found in the Accademia art museum, also in town.
Definitely worth checking out in Florence is the 700 year old Ponte Vecchio bridge, the only bridge in the city that wasn’t destroyed in WWII because of its historical significance. For centuries it has housed dozens of jewellery stores, and offers some stunning views up the river over Florence.
And for those of you who haven’t yet had your fill of Italian churches, in Florence there’s the Santa Croce Basilica (where we posed for our group Contiki shot) and the Duomo, the fourth largest cathedral in the world.
Contiki Optionals:
While in Venice there are 3 activities on offer: A glass blowing demonstration, a gondola ride and a Venetian dinner. We didn’t do the dinner, which our tour manager and people who attended insisted was very average. The glass blowing demonstration was free and fascinating to watch, even if afterwards we were subjected to the usual sales pitch and promise of “special Contiki discounts”. As for the gondola ride, well that’s just something you have to do while in Venice, and with 6 people per gondola, we actually got our ride for much less than the standard rate. While our gondolier didn’t sing, some of the others did, and our 1 hour ride included a little bit of the Grand Canal, and plenty of small streets and back alleys. You get a very real sense this way of the water damage the centuries-old city is experiencing as it slowly sinks. At ground floor level there are plenty of barred up windows, rotten wood and peeling plaster.
In Rome it’s definitely worth doing the Walking Tour of the Roman Forum. I’m a big advocate for walking around with informed guides instead of with your nose in a book, and the feisty elderly lady we had here was excellent. Who knew that pretty much the only reason many Ancient temples and buildings survived was because they were converted into Christian churches?
In Florence you have the option of doing another walking tour, this one free. Our well-spoken guide had an excellent knowledge of history, myth and art, and pointed out little details we would never have noticed on our own. Some people missed this walk to go and queue for museums. I’m glad I didn’t.
In Florence we also enjoyed a free leatherworking display, as Florentine leather is world renowned. We were taught how to identify fake products and we were shown a type of leather jewellery box perfected during the Renaissance that features absolutely no hinges or metal parts. In the attached store I loved the leather bound notebooks with a Florentine crest on front, but I couldn’t justify paying the exorbitant price for one of them.
Our visit to Florence was actually filled with optionals. We all posed for our tour photo in the morning (optional to buy) and in the evening we could go to a Tuscan dinner and a cheesy nightclub. The nightclub was by all accounts your bog standard disco, with the addition of lecherous Italian males who will crowd and paw at any single girl, especially if she’s showing any skin. The Tuscan dinner though was a great deal of fun, and definitely must-do. Apart from a big 5 course traditional meal and all the wine you can drink, it’s a chance to dress up and there’s dancing and karaoke entertainment as well. It’s during evenings like this that you realise how many single girls there are on the average Contiki tour. Single guys, here’s your opening. Anyway, although we had to leave the dinner by 10:30, the party continued on the coach on the way to the nightclub, with dancing, singing and swaying in the centre aisle. Our evening in Tuscany was really great.
Food & Drink:
I love Italian food anyway, so my taste buds and stomach were very content in Italy. If I’d had more time in the country, and money, I probably would have sampled a greater variety of the different local cuisines. As it was, even I was a bit tired of pizza by the time we drove out of Italy.
Pizza – In Italy it’s more about the flavour than tons of toppings. Also, expect your pizza to be drizzled quite heavily with olive oil. It may look greasy but it’s actually not too unhealthy, and it really tastes delicious.
Pasta – Once again it’s more about flavour than litres of sauce. Italian pasta is also not overcooked to the point of limpness. It’s generally served with a certain degree of firmness.
Panini – Tasty fresh Italian sandwiches. In Florence, my Lonely Planet guide book led us to an outstanding local hangout, I Fratella, which is almost literally a hole in the wall. You haven’t lived until you’ve had wild mushroom and boar ham in a freshly baked bread roll. Yum yum.
Gelato – The Italians are the European masters of ice cream. Gelato is utterly superb, and frankly you can be overwhelmed by the choice of flavours. The guys I was with would normally go for 3 flavours in a cone or cup; myself 2, and then we would share. It’s normally €1 a flavour – if you’re paying more than that you’re being ripped off. Oh, and one more thing, make sure that before buying you check the gelato is in a metal container, as opposed to plastic. This means it’s been made fresh, and not just hauled out of some refrigerator in the back room.
Wine – Italy is well known for its wines, especially reds. Those we sampled were good but I wasn’t blown away by any of the ones we had.
One final note: Beware the black Fanta! Fanta Chinotto, which looks remarkably like Coke, is made from the Myrtle-leaved Orange Tree. On the first sip it tastes sweet and pleasant. One second later the bitter aftertaste hits and it’s horrible! Fanta connoisseurs, you have been warned…
Impressions & Interesting Facts:
Gypsies and Italian shysters in general: We were warned extensively about con artists, thieves and pickpockets in Italy, all of whom like to prey on tourists. So always keep an eye on your belongings, don’t put your bag on the floor in busy bars or restaurants, don’t ever pull out your wallet or purse at a main tourist spot, keep your backpack on your front in crowded areas and when using public transport (in Rome that’s the decent Metro and bus system), and always be well aware of your surroundings.
Gypsy pickpocket gangs have grown very sophisticated, and they apparently hang around popular spots like St Mark’s Square in Venice and the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps in Rome. Looking like well-dressed sophisticates, or just plain tourists, they normally can be found in groups of 5 or so, including women and children. There’s also a common scam at the moment where tourists are presented with a gold ring, asked if it’s theirs and then asked for a reward. The point of the ruse is to discover where you’re keeping your money, so that a gypsy buddy can pickpocket you later.
There’s also a lot of corruption in Italy. Forgetting bribes to get out of trouble, you can be ripped off if you’re not careful. For example, if you want to pose for a photo with a dressed up Roman soldier outside the Colosseum, set a price upfront before clicking away. Before entering a restaurant, check out the menu carefully because it’s common Italian practice to charge you for absolutely everything (from tap water to bread rolls), add a service charge and sometimes even add things you didn’t buy to the bill. People in our tour were also directly affected by “dodgy Italians” when they wanted to buy clothing. Drawn into a store by a special offer in the window, they got to the till only to discover the item was €20 more expensive than advertised. Returning to the window to argue their case, the sign had been changed.
Service: Unlike the briskly efficient Germans, who hate having their time wasted by undecided people, the Italians can be incredibly laid back when it comes to service. It may be ages before you’re served at a food counter or in a store. And you’ve got to be quietly patient, otherwise you’ll piss them off and they’ll take even longer.
Tourist hot spots: Of course this little tidbit of information applies to cities the world over, but the further you get from the main tourist areas, the less expensive things are. If you want the “privilege” of sipping a cup of coffee at a restaurant in St Mark’s Square, or want to buy jewellery from a store on Ponte Vecchio, you will pay for it Big Time.
Shopping: Venice for glass, lace, jewellery, jester hats and masks. Rome for little replica statues and figurines, cool T-shirts, and Vatican religious goodies (rosaries, crucifixes, prayer bookmarks etc.), and not forgetting designer fashion on Via Del Corso. Florence for jewellery (where I got my puzzle ring from), leather goodies, and general market bargains.
Siesta: Some places still maintain a typically Mediterranean siesta period, meaning that some attractions may be closed for a few hours around midday. Bear this in mind when you’re planning your day’s activities.
Church dress: Italy is hot and sunny, particularly in the Summer months, so it’s likely you’ll want to roam around in strappy tops and shorts. However, you’ll need to reconsider your revealing wardrobe if you want to look inside one of the many Catholic churches and cathedrals (they’re free, remember). Although some places enforce it more strongly than others, there’s a church dress code that insists you cover your shoulders and your knees. That goes for guys too.
Rules and regulations: Unlike the Greeks, the Italians seem pretty relaxed when it comes to their ancient treasures and heritage. So you can actually stomp all over the Forum, and touch the Colloseum, whereas in Athens you’re kept well away from the Parthenon. This said, there are quite a number of rules relating to eating, drinking, sitting and other general behaviour in certain popular areas. Look out for boards or you may find yourself being yelled at.
Fake designer bags: Many a guide book will tell you that Italy is the place to pick up really authentic-looking fashion fakes. It is. However, while you can buy replica belts and sunglasses with no problem, new legislation has been put in place to clamp down on the selling of fake designer handbags. If you are caught buying from a street vendor you could be fined €500-2000.
Guides: As in Greece, only qualified guides registered with the government are allowed to lead tourists around. If you aren’t registered and you’re caught you can be subjected to a huge fine and even a prison sentence. This meant our Contiki tour manager had to adopt some rather covert tactics as he pointed out the sights, including always being on the lookout for the Tourist Police in their easy-to-spot white pith helmets.
Crossing Roman roads: Italian drivers have a reputation for being aggressive and foolhardy (a lot like back in South Africa actually). When crossing a road on foot where there are no traffic lights, you pretty much have to choose a moment, take a leap of faith and enter the intersection. It’s vital to make eye contact with drivers or they will act like they haven’t seen you and continue accelerating in your direction.
Eating conventions: When dining out in Italy the custom is to eat as soon as the food arrives in front of you. Don’t wait for other people at your table to be served because the cook has sent you the food at its ideal temperature.
Bathroom etiquette: Ladies, I hope you have strong thighs because toilet seats can often be missing in Italy's public restrooms. Be prepared to squat. And in hotels, be aware that the cord in your bathroom is connected to an alarm downstairs. It’s there in case you’re ever in distress and need help from the hotel staff.
Venice, frankly, I found overrated, although it probably wasn’t helped by the fact that on the Saturday we were there several cruise liners had unleashed their thousands of passengers on the island. Away from the main area, as I roamed the maze of backstreets and bridges, I could begin to see Venice’s charm and uniqueness, but people going on about it as “the most amazing place ever” have seriously overhyped the city. Oh, and for the record, in September and October its waterways aren’t smelly and slimy at all.
Communication:
Italian has a lot of similarities to Spanish, so if you have any familiarity with the latter language (which the bf at least did), it’s a considerable help. You’ll find yourself using “Scusi” and “Grazie” probably the most in common encounters.
Activities & Attractions:
Venice: You’ll find most of the main attractions are right there at St Mark’s Square: there’s the impressive St Mark’s Basilica, with its horse statues along the front, the Campanile bell tower (just don’t climb it when the bells are about to ring because you’ll deafen yourself), the Doge’s Palace (with the Bridge of Sighs), where the rulers of the powerful Venetian city state would live and govern from – and also where super lover Casanova was imprisoned.
Away from the Square there’s also the Peggy Guggenheim Museum for lovers of Modern Art (works by Dali, Picasso and Jackson Pollock are on display), the Accademia Museum, focused on 14th-18th Century Venetian artworks, the Rialto Bridge over the Grand Canal and, further afield, the Lido beach.
Given what little time we had, and after discovering the cathedral was closed, we toured the incredibly impressive Doge’s Palace (€13 entry) and hunted down Campo San Barnaba, which played a prominent role in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade – “X marks the spot.” To get around Venice, follow the signs to the main areas, and keep a good map on hand. You can get to most things on foot, which is a good thing as water taxis are apparently very expensive, and there’s no such thing as daily travel cards in Venice. Oh, and bear in mind, unless you’re very wealthy and can afford to stay on the island, your Venetian hotel will be on the mainland.
Rome: Apart from the Vatican, which is a bit separate from the other tourist attractions, you can actually get around to the main sights of Rome quite easily on foot. I always thought that the Vatican, the smallest independent city state in the world, was essentially walled off from the rest of Rome, but it’s not. You just walk on in – although you have to pass through airport style security (i.e. no sharp objects) to enter St. Peter’s Basilica (which is free, by the way).
As a Catholic, a pilgrimage to the Vatican is kinda obligatory, but really for anyone, Christian or not, this World Heritage Site is a must-see. No photo can really do justice to the utter magnificence of St. Peter’s, the biggest church in the world. Inside, look out for the statue of Christianity’s first great leader, St. Peter himself, whose foot has been worn down over the centuries by the kisses of millions of pilgrims, as well as Michelangelo's famous Pietà (right by the door), probably the only thing in the entire cathedral that’s actually human/life-size. You can also climb up to the top of the Cupola for a closer look at the Basilica’s ceiling mosaics, as well as amazing views of Rome. You’ll climb 500+ highly worn stairs to get there, and apparently some devout pilgrims like to do it completely on their hands and knees. It’s €5 to start from ground level, or you can pay €7, like we did, and take the elevator halfway up. Be warned though – it’s a demanding, dizzying climb, even if you’re only doing part of it.
The Vatican also includes the famous Vatican Museums (€14 entry), which house one of the greatest art collections in the world. A particular highlight for me was finally seeing the sculpture Laocoon and his Sons in real life, although the Museum’s major drawcards are the newly restored, vibrantly coloured Raphael Rooms and Sistine Chapel. Again, you probably need to spend a full day in the museum to fully appreciate what you’re seeing. I felt very guilty rushing through the map and tapestry halls, ancient animal sculpture room as well as the expansive modern art section.
If you’re ever visiting the Vatican, just be sure to get there early. Like 7:30 early. And be sure to look out for the Pope’s exclusive Swiss Guard in their striped pyjama uniforms.
In terms of other things to do and see in Rome, well, the list is endless. Along with the temple-turned-church, the Pantheon, there are dozens of other free churches that house all kinds of supposed relics, from St. Peter’s chains during his imprisonment, to the steps Jesus ascended to be judged by Pilot. Then there are all the water features and monuments, from the stunning Trevi Fountain to the Spanish Steps to the massive and beautiful National Monument, with its eternal flame and Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.
Of course I haven’t even touched on all the sights relating to Ancient Rome, which include the excavated Roman Forum (the city’s ancient political and economic centre), the Colosseum, Circus Maximus, the “cat pit” where hundreds of stray felines have lived for centuries, and various towering monuments and obelisks.
Oh and our tour manager pointed out all the important sites featured in Dan Brown’s Angels & Demons, so presumably fans of that book will have a blast in Rome, visiting places like the Castle of Angels.
Florence: The heart of Tuscany, Florence is also known as the capital of the European Renaissance. Many of the greatest artistic, scientific, literary and political minds lived in Florence, including Leonardo, Michelangelo, Galileo, Dante and Machiavelli. Their influence is all over the city, and probably the number one museum to visit while in Florence is the Uffizi Gallery, which, apart from being Italy’s biggest art gallery, houses an amazing selection of Renaissance era works by some of the greatest Masters, including Botticelli’s Birth of Venus. We weren’t up for standing in long queues, and rushing another expensive museum visit, so regrettably we missed the Uffizi Gallery.
For general sightseeing though, the Piazza Signoria is a good starting point in this very compact city. It contains the fort-like city hall, several stunning Renaissance sculptures (my favourite being a huge bronze of Perseus beheading Medusa) and a fake version of Michelangelo’s David where the original used to stand. The real David can be found in the Accademia art museum, also in town.
Definitely worth checking out in Florence is the 700 year old Ponte Vecchio bridge, the only bridge in the city that wasn’t destroyed in WWII because of its historical significance. For centuries it has housed dozens of jewellery stores, and offers some stunning views up the river over Florence.
And for those of you who haven’t yet had your fill of Italian churches, in Florence there’s the Santa Croce Basilica (where we posed for our group Contiki shot) and the Duomo, the fourth largest cathedral in the world.
Contiki Optionals:
While in Venice there are 3 activities on offer: A glass blowing demonstration, a gondola ride and a Venetian dinner. We didn’t do the dinner, which our tour manager and people who attended insisted was very average. The glass blowing demonstration was free and fascinating to watch, even if afterwards we were subjected to the usual sales pitch and promise of “special Contiki discounts”. As for the gondola ride, well that’s just something you have to do while in Venice, and with 6 people per gondola, we actually got our ride for much less than the standard rate. While our gondolier didn’t sing, some of the others did, and our 1 hour ride included a little bit of the Grand Canal, and plenty of small streets and back alleys. You get a very real sense this way of the water damage the centuries-old city is experiencing as it slowly sinks. At ground floor level there are plenty of barred up windows, rotten wood and peeling plaster.
In Rome it’s definitely worth doing the Walking Tour of the Roman Forum. I’m a big advocate for walking around with informed guides instead of with your nose in a book, and the feisty elderly lady we had here was excellent. Who knew that pretty much the only reason many Ancient temples and buildings survived was because they were converted into Christian churches?
In Florence you have the option of doing another walking tour, this one free. Our well-spoken guide had an excellent knowledge of history, myth and art, and pointed out little details we would never have noticed on our own. Some people missed this walk to go and queue for museums. I’m glad I didn’t.
In Florence we also enjoyed a free leatherworking display, as Florentine leather is world renowned. We were taught how to identify fake products and we were shown a type of leather jewellery box perfected during the Renaissance that features absolutely no hinges or metal parts. In the attached store I loved the leather bound notebooks with a Florentine crest on front, but I couldn’t justify paying the exorbitant price for one of them.
Our visit to Florence was actually filled with optionals. We all posed for our tour photo in the morning (optional to buy) and in the evening we could go to a Tuscan dinner and a cheesy nightclub. The nightclub was by all accounts your bog standard disco, with the addition of lecherous Italian males who will crowd and paw at any single girl, especially if she’s showing any skin. The Tuscan dinner though was a great deal of fun, and definitely must-do. Apart from a big 5 course traditional meal and all the wine you can drink, it’s a chance to dress up and there’s dancing and karaoke entertainment as well. It’s during evenings like this that you realise how many single girls there are on the average Contiki tour. Single guys, here’s your opening. Anyway, although we had to leave the dinner by 10:30, the party continued on the coach on the way to the nightclub, with dancing, singing and swaying in the centre aisle. Our evening in Tuscany was really great.
Food & Drink:
I love Italian food anyway, so my taste buds and stomach were very content in Italy. If I’d had more time in the country, and money, I probably would have sampled a greater variety of the different local cuisines. As it was, even I was a bit tired of pizza by the time we drove out of Italy.
Pizza – In Italy it’s more about the flavour than tons of toppings. Also, expect your pizza to be drizzled quite heavily with olive oil. It may look greasy but it’s actually not too unhealthy, and it really tastes delicious.
Pasta – Once again it’s more about flavour than litres of sauce. Italian pasta is also not overcooked to the point of limpness. It’s generally served with a certain degree of firmness.
Panini – Tasty fresh Italian sandwiches. In Florence, my Lonely Planet guide book led us to an outstanding local hangout, I Fratella, which is almost literally a hole in the wall. You haven’t lived until you’ve had wild mushroom and boar ham in a freshly baked bread roll. Yum yum.
Gelato – The Italians are the European masters of ice cream. Gelato is utterly superb, and frankly you can be overwhelmed by the choice of flavours. The guys I was with would normally go for 3 flavours in a cone or cup; myself 2, and then we would share. It’s normally €1 a flavour – if you’re paying more than that you’re being ripped off. Oh, and one more thing, make sure that before buying you check the gelato is in a metal container, as opposed to plastic. This means it’s been made fresh, and not just hauled out of some refrigerator in the back room.
Wine – Italy is well known for its wines, especially reds. Those we sampled were good but I wasn’t blown away by any of the ones we had.
One final note: Beware the black Fanta! Fanta Chinotto, which looks remarkably like Coke, is made from the Myrtle-leaved Orange Tree. On the first sip it tastes sweet and pleasant. One second later the bitter aftertaste hits and it’s horrible! Fanta connoisseurs, you have been warned…
Impressions & Interesting Facts:
Gypsies and Italian shysters in general: We were warned extensively about con artists, thieves and pickpockets in Italy, all of whom like to prey on tourists. So always keep an eye on your belongings, don’t put your bag on the floor in busy bars or restaurants, don’t ever pull out your wallet or purse at a main tourist spot, keep your backpack on your front in crowded areas and when using public transport (in Rome that’s the decent Metro and bus system), and always be well aware of your surroundings.
Gypsy pickpocket gangs have grown very sophisticated, and they apparently hang around popular spots like St Mark’s Square in Venice and the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps in Rome. Looking like well-dressed sophisticates, or just plain tourists, they normally can be found in groups of 5 or so, including women and children. There’s also a common scam at the moment where tourists are presented with a gold ring, asked if it’s theirs and then asked for a reward. The point of the ruse is to discover where you’re keeping your money, so that a gypsy buddy can pickpocket you later.
There’s also a lot of corruption in Italy. Forgetting bribes to get out of trouble, you can be ripped off if you’re not careful. For example, if you want to pose for a photo with a dressed up Roman soldier outside the Colosseum, set a price upfront before clicking away. Before entering a restaurant, check out the menu carefully because it’s common Italian practice to charge you for absolutely everything (from tap water to bread rolls), add a service charge and sometimes even add things you didn’t buy to the bill. People in our tour were also directly affected by “dodgy Italians” when they wanted to buy clothing. Drawn into a store by a special offer in the window, they got to the till only to discover the item was €20 more expensive than advertised. Returning to the window to argue their case, the sign had been changed.
Service: Unlike the briskly efficient Germans, who hate having their time wasted by undecided people, the Italians can be incredibly laid back when it comes to service. It may be ages before you’re served at a food counter or in a store. And you’ve got to be quietly patient, otherwise you’ll piss them off and they’ll take even longer.
Tourist hot spots: Of course this little tidbit of information applies to cities the world over, but the further you get from the main tourist areas, the less expensive things are. If you want the “privilege” of sipping a cup of coffee at a restaurant in St Mark’s Square, or want to buy jewellery from a store on Ponte Vecchio, you will pay for it Big Time.
Shopping: Venice for glass, lace, jewellery, jester hats and masks. Rome for little replica statues and figurines, cool T-shirts, and Vatican religious goodies (rosaries, crucifixes, prayer bookmarks etc.), and not forgetting designer fashion on Via Del Corso. Florence for jewellery (where I got my puzzle ring from), leather goodies, and general market bargains.
Siesta: Some places still maintain a typically Mediterranean siesta period, meaning that some attractions may be closed for a few hours around midday. Bear this in mind when you’re planning your day’s activities.
Church dress: Italy is hot and sunny, particularly in the Summer months, so it’s likely you’ll want to roam around in strappy tops and shorts. However, you’ll need to reconsider your revealing wardrobe if you want to look inside one of the many Catholic churches and cathedrals (they’re free, remember). Although some places enforce it more strongly than others, there’s a church dress code that insists you cover your shoulders and your knees. That goes for guys too.
Rules and regulations: Unlike the Greeks, the Italians seem pretty relaxed when it comes to their ancient treasures and heritage. So you can actually stomp all over the Forum, and touch the Colloseum, whereas in Athens you’re kept well away from the Parthenon. This said, there are quite a number of rules relating to eating, drinking, sitting and other general behaviour in certain popular areas. Look out for boards or you may find yourself being yelled at.
Fake designer bags: Many a guide book will tell you that Italy is the place to pick up really authentic-looking fashion fakes. It is. However, while you can buy replica belts and sunglasses with no problem, new legislation has been put in place to clamp down on the selling of fake designer handbags. If you are caught buying from a street vendor you could be fined €500-2000.
Guides: As in Greece, only qualified guides registered with the government are allowed to lead tourists around. If you aren’t registered and you’re caught you can be subjected to a huge fine and even a prison sentence. This meant our Contiki tour manager had to adopt some rather covert tactics as he pointed out the sights, including always being on the lookout for the Tourist Police in their easy-to-spot white pith helmets.
Crossing Roman roads: Italian drivers have a reputation for being aggressive and foolhardy (a lot like back in South Africa actually). When crossing a road on foot where there are no traffic lights, you pretty much have to choose a moment, take a leap of faith and enter the intersection. It’s vital to make eye contact with drivers or they will act like they haven’t seen you and continue accelerating in your direction.
Eating conventions: When dining out in Italy the custom is to eat as soon as the food arrives in front of you. Don’t wait for other people at your table to be served because the cook has sent you the food at its ideal temperature.
Bathroom etiquette: Ladies, I hope you have strong thighs because toilet seats can often be missing in Italy's public restrooms. Be prepared to squat. And in hotels, be aware that the cord in your bathroom is connected to an alarm downstairs. It’s there in case you’re ever in distress and need help from the hotel staff.
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What about Firenze? My Fav.
Craig, haha! :) Our tour manager warned us about the cord and how pulling it can summon burly Italian men who will break through the door and find you rather unclothed. However, we were only told this after our first night in an Italian hotel. Fortunately, the cords were disconnected from the alarm system there.
Italy is a great place to visit though. It's weird - most of the Mediterranean are quite run down and dirty, but they just have so much character and unexpected beauty, and are filled with so much fascinating history.